So you’ve conquered the soap bar, and now you’re ready to tackle making liquid soap from scratch. This post demonstrates how to make a basic liquid soap. I will try to explain this as simply as it really is, so that you don’t run away in a panic. It is a long process, but it is also an easy one. You can use this as a base to customise your own shampoo, dishwashing liquid, shower gel etc. I’ve included step-by-step photos that will hopefully make the process easier to follow.
If you are new to soap-making, I highly recommend trying my basic soap bar recipe first, or enrolling in my soap-making course. The method for liquid soap is similar, so if you are familiar with soap bars then liquid soap will be a bubbly breeze. But if you haven’t, then liquid soap may sound complicated – which it is definitely not. If you’ve read other recipes, they may have intimidated you to the point of giving up. Yes, it is more involved than soap bars, but it’s still totally doable. Before we lather up, let me deal with a few FAQs…
Frequently Asked Questions
Liquid Soap Recipe: Step-By-Step
Time: 1 hour to soap paste, 3 hours to liquid soap.
Yields: Approximately 2.5 litres (10 standard bottles of shampoo)
463g Distilled water (for the lye solution – see part 1, step 2)
230g Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
900g* Coconut Oil
1 Litre Distilled water (for softening the soap paste – see part 2, step 2)
White vinegar for cleaning any spills.
*Note: When you buy one litre of coconut oil, you will get about 920 grams. That is why my recipe calls for 900g, because it is approximately what you will get out of a one litre tub. But always check the weight with a scale to be sure.
- Kitchen scale
- A heat-proof glass bowl (or ceramic) for the water. Check that the bowl is microwave and dishwasher safe.
- Large stainless steel pot for oils & water (minimum capacity: 2 litres)
- Good quality electric blender (cheap ones may burn out)
- Stainless steel spoon to mix
- Two litre jar or container to store your soap paste
- Bottles for your individual liquid soap products
- A cloth soaked in white vinegar for cleaning.
- Funnel (depending on the container you want to store your soap)
Part 1: Cooking Liquid Soap Paste (1 Hour)
- Measure out your quantities exactly with a scale: This recipe is like chemistry. Unfortunately, there’s no compromise and you have to use a scale, and follow all instructions to a tee.
- Make lye solution: Add 230g of potassium hydroxide (KOH) slowly to 463g of water in a heat-proof glass or ceramic mixing bowl (NOT the other way around). Do this in a well-ventilated area. Outdoors away from any pets is best . Do not inhale any of the fumes from the reaction, do not touch the solution. The solution will be murky, it will become hot, and you may hear popping sounds – this is normal. This solution is known as lye.
- Start heating your oil: in a genuine stainless steel pot. Do not let it get to boiling point, this is way too hot. If you have a thermometer, the ideal temperature for the oil is 50°C. You should be able to touch the oil and not burn – not that I’m encouraging you to touch hot oil, this is just to give you an idea of what 50°C feels like. The oil is hot, but nowhere near boiling. At this time, your lye solution is cooling down and the lye should start looking more clear (less murky) with time. Make sure that all the KOH crystals are dissolved by stirring with a stainless steel spoon.
- Combine oil and lye: Once both the oil and lye solution are roughly the same temperature, add the lye solution slowly to the warm oil (not the other way around), and start mixing with an electric mixer. Make sure the stove is on the lowest heat. You can check the temperature with a cooking thermometer. The ideal temperature is 50°C. Do not touch the lye mixture to determine its temperature please – you will suffer a chemical burn. Rather touch the side of the glass bowl to determine that it’s warm, or use a thermometer.
- Blend. First the mixture will look like it’s curdling (like image below). Keep going.
- Keep blending (+/- 20 minutes): Then your mixture will begin to look like apple sauce or thin porridge (image below). Keep going. It took me about 20 minutes to get to this stage with a two-prong mixer and only 5 minutes with an immersion blender (this is why you need a good blender)! The time this takes depends on the oil you use, and the speed of your electric beater. So don’t worry, it’s supposed to take a while.
- Keep blending (+/- 2 minutes): Eventually your mixture will become like soft and fluffy mashed potatoes. It took me a further 2 minutes to get to this point. Keep going.
- Keep blending (+/- 4 minutes): Then you will get to the thick and lumpy phase. It becomes like seriously stiff pap! Keep going.
- Mix by hand, and cook the soap for 30 minutes: It is at this point when your blender starts to struggle. So now is the time to switch to a spatula or spoon for manual mixing. The mixture will start to pull away from the edges and become pasty. It will not stick to the pot. It will also become more translucent, but not transparent – kinda like cloudy vaseline. Cook this paste on the lowest heat for a minimum of 30 minutes (maximum one hour), stirring often. If this sounds like too much work for you, throw the mixture into your slow cooker and let it cook for 2 hours on the lowest heat.
- Stop mixing…finally! When you reach this translucent stage, you can rest your poor arms. Your soap is cooked.
- Transfer your soap paste into a container for storage: You can keep this soap paste for months without it going off, which is better than storing ready-made liquid soap. Water invites bacteria – which needs a preservative. Now we move onto part 2, softening the paste into a liquid soap.
Part 2: Softening Paste To Liquid Soap (2 Hours or Overnight)
- Measure out the soap paste you need: The dilution ratio is one part soap paste to one part distilled water (1:1). So if you want to make a cup of shampoo (250g), measure out soap paste that is half of your final quantity. I.e. 125g of soap paste if you want 250g of shampoo in the end.
- Measure out the distilled water: Measure out the exact same amount of distilled water as you did soap paste. If you want a thicker texture, use less water.
- Combine soap paste and distilled water: You have two options. You can soften the soap paste in the water over heat – so using a double boiler, slow-cooker, or in a pot (lowest heat), stirring every few minutes. This is quicker. Or you can add boiling, distilled water to the soap paste and just let it sit overnight in a sealed container. This requires less effort. When you wake up it should all be dissolved. If not, mix it with a fork breaking up the remaining bits, and let it stand a little longer. Here are some pictures of the phases that it goes through on the stove until completely dissolved into liquid soap:
Here is an image of the soap paste just sitting in a jar of distilled water overnight. It will dissolve completely by itself into liquid soap. This requires far less effort than the stove method shown above, and is my preferred method to dissolve soap paste.
- Bottle it. When the soap paste is dissolved, you will have your final liquid soap! This consistency will remain and it will not separate or harden. This is the base for your liquid soap.
- Let it settle for a day (optional). It is safe to use your liquid soap immediately, but I like to let mine stand for a day just to settle. Then I add my additives like essential oils, nourishing oils etc.
There it is, you have made liquid soap from scratch. You can now customise this base by adding additives that suit your needs whether that be for household cleaning or for skincare.
Part 3: How to thicken liquid soap
This is completely optional and unnecessary, but it’s cool if you like to go the extra mile.
Before bottling your liquid soap, make a salt solution. For this to work, you cannot add more than 2% of salt to the liquid soap, otherwise you risk it seizing and separating. Mix 10g of salt in 10g of boiling water for every 500g of ready-made liquid soap (i.e. 2% salt). Once dissolved, stir this solution into your already diluted soap a little bit at a time until you reach a viscosity that you are happy with. Never use more than this 2%. Your soap should thicken a bit as you stir.
Rule of thumb: For every cup (approx. 250g) of liquid soap, mix 5g of salt in 5g of water. This is the maximum.
Recipe Variations & Substitutions
Unfortunately, you cannot substitute any oil for the coconut oil in this recipe, you must use coconut oil. The recipe needs to be recalculated for a different oil, because each oil requires a different amount of potassium hydroxide to saponify. I use 100% coconut oil for a cleansing and bubbly soap base.
I customise this base to be more nourishing later by adding glycerine etc. However, coconut oil results in a water-thin liquid soap, even though it is bubbly. You can thicken it with salt or xanthan gum (see part 3 above). Olive oil results in a thicker textured soap, but not as bubbly. Each oil has its own soap properties.
I don’t recommend using less than 500g of oils, because that can be too shallow to blend properly (unless you have a tiny, narrow pot).
Cost & Shelf Life
Cost Price: R15.63 per 250g of liquid soap.
Lasted me about: 3 months using the soap paste to make everything from hand soap, dishwashing liquid and shampoo.
Shelf life: The undiluted soap paste has a shelf life of about 2 years, whereas the liquid soap (after you’ve diluted the paste with water) has a shelf life of about 6 months if you used distilled water. This is why it is better to not dilute all the soap paste at once, but to rather store the paste and use it as you require more liquid soap. Scoop some paste out of its jar, and dilute it when you need some more liquid soap.
*Costs accurate at the time of writing, and based on best retail prices I’ve found.
- The time that it takes to make. I think the end result and versatility is worth the effort. By making soap paste in bulk, you can dedicate one Saturday afternoon a year, which is manageable.
- Potassium hydroxide is not as readily available as caustic soda (for soap bars). You can find caustic soda in most hardwares, but need to buy KOH from a soap specialist store. (Buy online here).
Cherry On Top
- Customizable: You can completely customize this soap recipe. You can add any essential oils/ scents and other additives. This base can be used as a body wash, shampoo, dish washing soap and laundry soap etc.
- Less waste: You can make natural soap in bulk for all your needs from household cleaning to body care, and save the cost and packaging waste of purchasing it all the time.
- Eco-friendly and only contains what you need – there are no unnecessary chemical additives.
Recommended Retail Options
If you don’t have the time or interest in making soap, my first recommendation is the fragrance-free liquid soap made by The Bear Necessities. I have personally reviewed and approved their formula, and I can confidently say that their liquid soap is the best retail substitute for my recipe. I also support The Bear Necessities, because they make every effort to avoid plastic packaging.
You may also try Dr Bronner’s liquid soap. However, Dr Bronner’s liquid soap is significantly more expensive because it is imported, and it’s bottled in plastic. This is why The Bear Necessities is my first recommendation – you will save money, reduce plastic, support local and come pretty close to using my recipe.
How was your liquid soap-making experience? Did you find my method easy-to-follow? I’d love to hear your feedback, so please share in the comments below.